Mendoza is the region where the vast majority of Argentina's wine is produced. The climate is ideal, as it is very dry. In particular, a French grape, Malbec, which never did so well in France thrives in Mendoza, hence the massive industry that this city supports. Historically the wine in Mendoza was oriented toward table wine, however as the industry has developed, and customers tastes become more demanding, there is a premium wine industry that is emerging.
I spent my first day in Mendoza tasting wines in the Uco Valley. We visited 3 different bodegas - Salentein, Lurton and O'Fournier. The Uco Valley is at a slight altitude compared to Lujan de Cuyo and Maipu, the other main wine areas of Mendoza. However for me it was ideal, as the views to the Andes were spectacular. I was lucky enough to have a beautiful day.
The tastings at each bodega were also very generous, much more so than when I've tasted in Australia, however the system is a little different here. Even if you don't visit with a tour, the tastings cost about 25 pesos or so, and you need to reserve in advance for them. With the exception of Malbec, the varieties of wine are very similar to those grown in Australia, however there are some differences in the taste.
At the third bodega, O'Fournier, we ate a 3.5 course lunch with a spectacular view ahead of us to the Andes. The lunch itself was pretty impressive. The highlight for me was the Torrontes sorbet, made from a wine grown in the region to the north of Mendoza.
It was time then for a siesta on the way back to Mendoza, before tucking into yet more Malbec back at the hostel. It's exhausting, this caper!
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Sailing down the river Valparaiso
I was lucky that I saw as much of Valparaiso on my first day that I could, because sightseeing was off the agenda for the next day. I awoke to torrential rain, which flows down the streets of Valparaiso like a river.
Instead? I stayed inside, reading, watching movies, anything until I could brave up to the journey to the bus station, and the bus back to Santiago. This time the bus was full, as was the metro when I got back to Pajaritos. It was cold and a little gloomy when I got back to Santiago, but at least it wasn´t raining so much anymore. I just took a relaxing afternoon before heading out later for some pisco. I learnt that more than one is generally one too many!
The next morning was cold in Santiago. I spent the morning just walking around the town, before stopping in some cafes in Barrio Lastarria - I´d finally found somewhere in Santiago making decent coffee!
Before long it was time to head to the airport, for a scary flight over the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina. It´s only a half hour flight, but because of the height of the mountains in the region (over 6,000m) it´s a fairly tricky one. The plane took off and flew south of Santiago until we got enough altitude, before turning left, throwing us around over the Andes for about 15 minutes through some of the worst turbulence I´ve ever experienced, before turning left again and landing in Mendoza, and entering Argentina through the "Extranjero" line.
Instead? I stayed inside, reading, watching movies, anything until I could brave up to the journey to the bus station, and the bus back to Santiago. This time the bus was full, as was the metro when I got back to Pajaritos. It was cold and a little gloomy when I got back to Santiago, but at least it wasn´t raining so much anymore. I just took a relaxing afternoon before heading out later for some pisco. I learnt that more than one is generally one too many!
The next morning was cold in Santiago. I spent the morning just walking around the town, before stopping in some cafes in Barrio Lastarria - I´d finally found somewhere in Santiago making decent coffee!
Before long it was time to head to the airport, for a scary flight over the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina. It´s only a half hour flight, but because of the height of the mountains in the region (over 6,000m) it´s a fairly tricky one. The plane took off and flew south of Santiago until we got enough altitude, before turning left, throwing us around over the Andes for about 15 minutes through some of the worst turbulence I´ve ever experienced, before turning left again and landing in Mendoza, and entering Argentina through the "Extranjero" line.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Ascensor envy
So this morning I took the bus to Valparaiso. Catching the crowded metro was fun with all my luggage... but given it cost only 460 pesos (a bit over a dollar Australian) in peak hour, I´m not one to complain. I love metro systems! I love riding them in every city I go to. It reminds me of what we don´t have in Sydney. So anyhow, once I got to Pajaritos I pretty much got straight onto a bus for Valparaiso. The trip goes right through the Casablanca wine region, and takes about an hour to get there.
The minute I got to Valpo I knew I was going to love it. Everything is so brightly coloured, and all day long catching the ricketty ascensors has been like dicing with death. They don´t feel safe. But I am assured they are!
I´m staying on Cerro Bellavista, which is just down the hill from Pablo Neruda´s house, La Sebastiana. Neruda is a bit of a wacky poet who wrote odes to ordinary things like the chair, the table and ´things´ in general. The house was uniquely decorated (including an awesome bar) along with fabulous views over Valparaiso. I also visited Ceero Alegre, Cerro Concepcion and Cerro Atilleria (to add to the dicing with death). The ascensors are also pretty cheap, the equivalent of about 60-70 cents to go either up or down, though the value is certainly in the up leg.
The thing you do notice about Valparaiso is the dogs. They are everywhere you look. Mostly strays I think but they certainly give the city a bit of character. Plus the people are friendly and helpful - and willing to put up with my dodgy español, without automatically lapsing into english.
All in all a great spot!
The minute I got to Valpo I knew I was going to love it. Everything is so brightly coloured, and all day long catching the ricketty ascensors has been like dicing with death. They don´t feel safe. But I am assured they are!
I´m staying on Cerro Bellavista, which is just down the hill from Pablo Neruda´s house, La Sebastiana. Neruda is a bit of a wacky poet who wrote odes to ordinary things like the chair, the table and ´things´ in general. The house was uniquely decorated (including an awesome bar) along with fabulous views over Valparaiso. I also visited Ceero Alegre, Cerro Concepcion and Cerro Atilleria (to add to the dicing with death). The ascensors are also pretty cheap, the equivalent of about 60-70 cents to go either up or down, though the value is certainly in the up leg.
The thing you do notice about Valparaiso is the dogs. They are everywhere you look. Mostly strays I think but they certainly give the city a bit of character. Plus the people are friendly and helpful - and willing to put up with my dodgy español, without automatically lapsing into english.
All in all a great spot!
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Poquito español
I arrived yesterday in Santiago de Chile. The flight was pretty good, however I couldn´t sleep at all. Flying into Santiago is pretty spectacular - the Andes are so close and go on for what seems like forever. I guess they are the longest mountain range in the world (*useful pickup at trivia last week*). So far the jet lag has been reasonably debilitating - I crashed as soon as I reached the hotel yesterday, and today a short nap turned into about 4 hours long, but I had a great morning wandering around the centro, visiting the Cathedral, and the boho district - barrio Bellavista, which was full of brightly coloured buildings, and contains Cerro San Cristobal, a hill in the middle of the city. I caught the furnicular to the top, and took in the impressive views of Santiago. It was an overcast day, but it was still a fabulous view of the city and the Andes.
The thing that gets you in Santiago is the constant sense of smog. From above you can see it just hanging over the city. The reason is due to the mountains, the winds can´t come in and blow the smog away, so it just hangs. Apparently this is the worst time of year for it.
I´m staying in Providencia, which is one of the nicer parts of town, plus there are some good restaurants and cafes. Last night I ate at a place called Bar Liguria, which is apparently a bit of a Santiago institution. It was great! Then tonight I had a pisco sour and a vino tinto along with my beef a la pobre (spanish for steak and chips). Either the pisco sour is a little potent, or I´m still getting over that jet lag. At least it´ll help me sleep tonight.
So far here in Santiago the most useful phrase has been ´poquito español´. I speak enough spanish to generally ask for what I want. The problem arises when I am asked questions about what I want. This is when the phrase comes in useful. It´s what you say when you can´t say anything else...
Photos to come when I can upload them.
The thing that gets you in Santiago is the constant sense of smog. From above you can see it just hanging over the city. The reason is due to the mountains, the winds can´t come in and blow the smog away, so it just hangs. Apparently this is the worst time of year for it.
I´m staying in Providencia, which is one of the nicer parts of town, plus there are some good restaurants and cafes. Last night I ate at a place called Bar Liguria, which is apparently a bit of a Santiago institution. It was great! Then tonight I had a pisco sour and a vino tinto along with my beef a la pobre (spanish for steak and chips). Either the pisco sour is a little potent, or I´m still getting over that jet lag. At least it´ll help me sleep tonight.
So far here in Santiago the most useful phrase has been ´poquito español´. I speak enough spanish to generally ask for what I want. The problem arises when I am asked questions about what I want. This is when the phrase comes in useful. It´s what you say when you can´t say anything else...
Photos to come when I can upload them.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
pronóstico del tiempo... or the weather forecast
Moving on with the trip preparations I thought it might be handy to look at the weather forecast. It's good to see that rain is forecast for the day I arrive in Santiago. Rain and 22°. I thought it was supposed to be winter!!! For both your and my reference as I travel I've included the links to the weather forecast on this page. No doubt it will be colder there than where you are so enjoy!
I've also found that once I get to Ushuaia I'll be up for 7 hour days, with sunrise just before 10am!
I've also found that once I get to Ushuaia I'll be up for 7 hour days, with sunrise just before 10am!
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
dos semana to go
So in two weeks I will be enroute to Santiago... so nothing better to start the trip than by creating a new blog. Let's hope I do a better job of keeping this one updated!! Though given there'll be lots of time in the dark in Patagonia, chances are looking good.
Heading into a month of the spanish speaking world, armed only with the useful phrases of "vino tinto por favor" and "muchas gracias amigo!" (somehow I think the former might be the more useful), I'm excited by the prospect of the broad range of country I'll have the opportunity to see.
The plan at the moment is as follows:
2 June (i.e. today): Finish reading "In Patagonia" by Bruce Chatwin
15 June: Pack madly. As usual, leave packing to the last minute.
16 June: Leave Sydney. Conveniently arrive in Santiago, Chile two hours later. LOVE the international date line.
18 June: Travel to Valparaiso, Chile, and spend some time travelling up and down hills.
20 June: Hopefully cross the Andes. I say hopefully as I'm up against winter and a pass of 3,500m.
21 June: Mendoza, Argentina: 3 days of Malbec, Malbec, Malbec. Or sitting on the other side of the Andes waiting to get through the pass.
24 June: Travel to Cordoba, the town where Che Guevara grew up.
26 June: Travel to Iguazu falls and enter Brazil... albeit for less than 24 hours
28 June: Tangoing in Buenos Aires. Or given the way I dance, watching others tango while enjoying the above mentioned vino tinto.
1 July: Head south to Patagonia, starting in San Carlos de Bariloche where I plan to eat lots of chocolate and fit in a day on the ski slopes
4 July: Head even further south to El Calafate, home to the incredible Perito Moreno glacier, and El Chalten. Apparently I'm only a little crazy to be attempting this in winter.
10 July: Fly to Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego - the most southernmost city in the world, where I'm hoping to cruise the Beagle Channel, ski Cerro Castor, go sledding with the huskies and all kinds of fun.
15 July: Head back to Buenos Aires for my last couple of days
18 July: Board the flight to Sydney which will take me until Sunday evening. I HATE the international date line. Potentially be quarantined for swine flu (let's hope not).
When I write it like that it seems it will be over in a heartbeat. I can't wait to get over there, and practice my Spanish again. I'm so excited about being able to use my new camera and see these amazing places I've wanted to see for so many years.
Heading into a month of the spanish speaking world, armed only with the useful phrases of "vino tinto por favor" and "muchas gracias amigo!" (somehow I think the former might be the more useful), I'm excited by the prospect of the broad range of country I'll have the opportunity to see.
The plan at the moment is as follows:
2 June (i.e. today): Finish reading "In Patagonia" by Bruce Chatwin
15 June: Pack madly. As usual, leave packing to the last minute.
16 June: Leave Sydney. Conveniently arrive in Santiago, Chile two hours later. LOVE the international date line.
18 June: Travel to Valparaiso, Chile, and spend some time travelling up and down hills.
20 June: Hopefully cross the Andes. I say hopefully as I'm up against winter and a pass of 3,500m.
21 June: Mendoza, Argentina: 3 days of Malbec, Malbec, Malbec. Or sitting on the other side of the Andes waiting to get through the pass.
24 June: Travel to Cordoba, the town where Che Guevara grew up.
26 June: Travel to Iguazu falls and enter Brazil... albeit for less than 24 hours
28 June: Tangoing in Buenos Aires. Or given the way I dance, watching others tango while enjoying the above mentioned vino tinto.
1 July: Head south to Patagonia, starting in San Carlos de Bariloche where I plan to eat lots of chocolate and fit in a day on the ski slopes
4 July: Head even further south to El Calafate, home to the incredible Perito Moreno glacier, and El Chalten. Apparently I'm only a little crazy to be attempting this in winter.
10 July: Fly to Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego - the most southernmost city in the world, where I'm hoping to cruise the Beagle Channel, ski Cerro Castor, go sledding with the huskies and all kinds of fun.
15 July: Head back to Buenos Aires for my last couple of days
18 July: Board the flight to Sydney which will take me until Sunday evening. I HATE the international date line. Potentially be quarantined for swine flu (let's hope not).
When I write it like that it seems it will be over in a heartbeat. I can't wait to get over there, and practice my Spanish again. I'm so excited about being able to use my new camera and see these amazing places I've wanted to see for so many years.
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